After leaving blois, headed south in our little red convertible, successfuly negotiated tolls, gas stations, 2 lane highways through towns to the autoroute, no billboards, no trucks, packed rest areas (with parking lots overfilled with vacationing french, and real meals served on non-disposable plates with wine!) then south to Jens friends communal house in pavie, near toulouse. An incredible group house (Domaine de Peyloubere, a 17th century former estate/hotel) these friendly people bought together. Amazing multilingual meal with 14 people, interesting conversations with folks from Beirut, Moscow and new zealand. Then had our own gite. Spending 2 days with pool, river swimming, walking in beautiful remote area, with spanish influenced architecture. Funny story while getting gas - 1 pump was not working according to people in front of me. So I waited till they drove off, then the car behind me pulls around to the broken pump and gets it working. I asked 'ca marche'? And they said 'oui. Les belgies' and laughed. Apparently Belgium is the newfoundland of Europe. 0 miles.
After another beautiful early morning walk in 60 degree temps around Peyloubere, the temps climbed quickly again to up near 100. After a visit to auch (cathedral, good cheap sandwich for lunch), drove east through mountains to Clermont l'herault (near montpelier) to visit Jens friend Wendy, her house - a former mill - is lovely too and only 200 years old. Swam in clothing optional lake and the Mediterranean at marselllan. Picked figs, walked among olive trees, napped/read/super relaxing.
Drove north over a few mountain ranges, rocky/scrubby terrain kind of like Israel/California, about 350 miles to Orleans. Now I get why rivers run east-west in France (as do bike trips). Expensive tolls on well maintained 130kph highways. Arrived by 5pm, and walked around. Architecture here is very different - mostly brick. Saw another cathedral (largest yet) where a service was going on, old city hall and had lebanese dinner at tawouk. City has some old buildings, but more modern than other loire Valley towns we've seen. Sat by river with a drink for our last 9.30pm sunset for a while, then watched the light show on the cathedral. In the morning, a last coffee and croissant, walk through parc Pasteur then a children's holocaust memorial museum (cercil), ironically located right next to the cathedral. The french rounded up the men (d'abord les hommes in the 'green ticket round up'), then the women, then the children, into camps near Orleans before deporting them in convoys to auschwitz to be executed (picture of letters they found) . Our last stop in France seemingly fitting.
Started out in the rain, across the loire to the right bank, wearing my new loire kit (thank you all!), 3 riders short as some returned their bikes. Rain ended quickly, then rode through vineyards, sunflowers to vouvray where half the group stopped for 10.30am wine tasting. 5 o'clock somewhere! Down to river where lots of cave-houses cut into side of mountains, where rest of group stopped for coffee and olive/nut cans from 1 Euro vending machines at lulu parc, looks like a total party place with band warming up. Rode into town and grabbed lunch by our **** grand hotel, then most of us rode to lac bergeonnerie - nice picnic spot, but no swimming. So we rode along the cher, through the trailer park to lac brettonierres. Also no swimming. Ah well. Turned around to go back to our **** grand hotel, beating the rain but most of our rooms were not ready...dinner in the big city at L'atelier Gourmand with Glasgow, #1 of 426 rated places by tripadvisor. 1 and a half flats, Jason...
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